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1998 was an irregular year, with some absolutely stunning wines produced on the right bank, and particularly Pomerol, which was the star of the show. Meanwhile, many left bank Cabernet blends tended to be a little overly tannic and austere.
The summer ripening period was one of extreme heat, storms and cooler periods. It was the intense heat that shrivelled many grapes, resulting in excessive tannin in the Cabernet Sauvignon. This together with heavy rains at the end of September made a dearth of characterless, austere wines in the Médoc, although producers at the top end had the technology to make the best out of a bad year.
Meanwhile for Merlot, some rain respite in early September followed by a nice warm few weeks ensured that it was picked in optimum conditions on both sides of the Gironde, ensuring a very good year for Péssac-Léognan and the Graves.
In terms of pricing, there are some very good buys to be had in something of a forgotten vintage, especially looking on the right bank. There were some exceptional wines from the Graves and a cluster of very good offerings, but a poor year for Sauternes which suffered with the weather.
The wines
1998 was an average year in the Médoc, due to the extremes in weather and a downpour prior to the harvest, particularly in the northern Médoc which is usually consistent. Margaux had a reasonably good time of it with a plateau of good wines with some delicious sweet fruits. Meanwhile, the Merlot-based Graves had a very good year, where good drainage on gravel soils saved many from the deluge.
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Château Margaux, 1998
A.O.C. Margaux, Bordeaux, France
Optimum Drinking: 2013-2025
Reviewer Rating: 94 - eRobertParker.com
"Complex aromas of crushed blackberries and toasted oak, with hints of tar. Full-bodied, with big, chewy tannins and hints of vanilla bean and coffee underneath." Wine Spectator
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Château Mouton Rothschild, 1998
A.O.C. Pauillac, Bordeaux 1er Grand Cru Classé, France
Optimum Drinking: 2013-2050
Reviewer Rating: 96 - eRobertParker.com
"Blackberry and violets on the nose, with hints of roses. Sweet tobacco too. Full-bodied, with a solid core of fruit and round tannins." Wine Spectator
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Château Pontet-Canet, 1998
A.O.C. Pauillac, Bordeaux 5ème Grand Cru Classé, France
Optimum Drinking: 2013-2015
Reviewer Rating: 89 - eRobertParker.com
Château Pontet-Canet 1998 is a great value from a forgotten Bordeaux vintage.
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